Gordon Ramsay’s Bread Street Kitchen & Bar, Edinburgh. Ron Mackenna’s verdict

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I turn the corner onto St Andrew Square and the first thing I see is a queue winding down the sidewalk. No … and I didn’t book.

But wait, this queue is actually for Wagamama and moments later I’m standing in the lobby of Gordon Ramsay’s new venue where a host is manipulating a very full computer screen.

Ooh, she said, very difficult, she said, no reservation, she said, but I’ll try to find you a table, sir.

Computers? Sheesh? In the good old days she would have just turned the corner, I’ll think later as I’m led past smoked glass, paneled wood and up a spiral staircase – looking back over some empty tables . But it’s definitely buzzy.

“Unbelievable, sir,” a cheerful waiter would later exclaim when I showed no emotion when I heard that they had run out of chocolate fondant – at 7:30 pm – and that I ordered the pineapple carpaccio anyway.

“Excellent, sir,” another waiter will say when I dig into the tuna tartare.

I like the waiters here. They gush, just like you would if Ramsey were your boss, no matter how bad that may be. They smile, they get excited, they are super smart and even though they seem to have a lot of tables to cover, there is always one speeding by, glancing wandering around at what is going on in a little one. tray.

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Cooking is fast too. This tartare comes just as Shazam tells me that we are all listening and running on Ba time; Sen (Pool Party Dub Mix) … ooh, hey, ooh, hey yadayada.

Banksy-style posters on the wall, nifty dots on the glass, and pieces of soft, succulent, surprisingly fresh and spicy fish. I’m getting a sudden surge of salty, sesame and soy flavors after the peppery boost – we’re going way high on the flavor charts.

There’s a small squirt of avocado or two needlessly, a big dollop of crème fraîche, and crispy wonton crisps, for £ 11.50 from your Edinburgh pounds, please.

But it’s the Spicy Tamarind Chicken Wings, which I also ordered, that I’m most interested in.

Ten years ago, when the first Bread Street opened in London, (there are now quite a few) Restaurant reviewer Jay Rayner mumbled the price (£ 8), the serving (5) and said he expected chic Ramsey to make dirty food, but I got KFC instead. Meow.

I do not agree. That price is now £ 10.50 (for six), the sauce is still sticky and messy, but the wings themselves are crisp, then wet, the flavors are once again potent, tangy, sweet and sour, sweet, with a cilantro punch. Then a crispy spring onion. I love them. Although their lingering aroma will eventually follow me home.

And, anyway, I paid ten cents for chicken wings in this town a few weeks ago at a pretty average steak house. Nothing to see here then. Pass.

Here is the Roasted Cod, Mashed Potatoes, Artichoke (£ 21.50) with another high volume side; capers, a red wine and lemon sauce. This lemon and wine undertone infuses everything, very deeply. Again, this is food for you to pay attention to.

Saying that the fish looks roasted, clean, flakes properly, but there is something unconvincing about the texture. Hmm.

I ordered Koffman fries at, ooh, £ 4.50. They’re floury, crispy, and salty, okay, but that thick exterior reminds me more of Burger King than fresh crisps.

And what about that Ayrshire pork chop? Roasted Braeburn puree? At £ 18.50 without mash or fries? Tiny cubes of apple with mustard mixed together. Again a bittersweet feeling of attention seeking. The chop looks good, is still chewy and the texture is okay, but the caramelization is little more than lip-smacking and there isn’t much of the flavor.

After all that, there’s a cool and refreshing pineapple carpaccio with a passion fruit, kiwi and coconut sorbet.

As I head into November night, I will see that there is still a queue for Wagamama, but now a new one has developed. The next door. Outside of Dishoom.

The early days of Bread Street then.

Bread Street Kitchen & Bar

4 Place Saint-André

Edinburgh

0131 252 5200

Menu: Gordon Ramsay’s London channel arrives in Edinburgh. A chic bistro palate serving pork chops, roast cod, tamarind wings. Pretty much what you would expect. 3/5

Service: The first week and the staff were eye-catching and pleasantly enthusiastic. Quick service despite being large and quite busy. 5/5

Price: expensive, again as you would expect. Those chicken wings £ 10.50, cod topping over £ 20, while the unaccompanied chop is £ 18.50. 3/5

Atmosphere: it’s big, it’s quite comfortable, there is a pretty good atmosphere and it’s tastefully furnished. 4/5

Food: Flavors that catch the eye, but when the flavors set in and the main ingredients are tasted, it’s probably not that impressive. Better than the average. 6/10

21/30


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